Thoughts on life and music.

After a long, cold but beautiful day at the lakes, we learned that Croatia, despite its tourist friendly atmosphere, still has a Balkan attitude towards busses - in the words of an opportunist cab driver, "maybe bus come, maybe doesn't, maybe stop, maybe doesn't." So after the "last bus" of the day went flying by, we talked to the two Japanese tourists who were also kicked out of the closing cafe. They had paid a travel agent to organize their lives, and were promised a bus at 5:40. The agent actually showed up in a car around 5:15 to make sure they got a bus, so Kent, Tom and I tagged along with them and finally got on a bus back to Zagreb.

We met Tom on the bus out to the lakes, we had recognized each other from our hostel and decided to stick together. Tom was a "proper Englishman", from a small village near Stonehenge and works as a banker in London. He had been traveling Croatia for 8-9 days when we met up with him. He had booked last minute, and checked the current weather at the time, so he packed for a somewhat warm vacation... he didn't have a coat or boots, just a sweatshirt and holey converse sneakers. I don't know how he managed 5 hours of cold snow, I was freezing by the end and I had big boots on!

When we got back into Zagreb we went out to the advent tent in Ban Josip square with Tom and another guy from the hostel, Kody. Kody was from Brisbane, Australia, so we all had fun comparing slang and how we pronounced things. We met a group of Croatian dentists at our table in the tent, and got a lot of compliments on our teeth... And some free wine, so the teeth inspection was worth it.

We had great plans of getting up early to see the Museum of Broken Relationships so Tom could join us before his flight out, but the free wine was a bit much for a 7am reverie. Kent made cheese omelets for everyone, and we had coffee and hung out for a while with Tom. Kent, Kody and I then headed out to see this museum of broken hearts.

I thought it was an awesome concept for a museum. It started as a touring collection, and then installed permanently in Zagreb. Anyone can submit a piece, so it's almost like living art therapy, people take the physical reminders of their past loves and turn them into art. Here's a few of my favorites:

And of course there was a guest book and a confessional, visitors could write down their own stories, rants and reactions to the museum collection... and trumpet players.

The museum had a great cafe, and I had my first decent iced coffee since coming to the Balkans. With whipped cream of course. Then we decided to wander and see the upper town with Kody.

We had lunch at a restaurant called Nocturno, I had blackfish risotto. I don't know what that means besides delicious.

Kody had heard about a cemetery to visit, so we got on the train to go check it out.

It was beautiful in a sad sort of way, especially in the rain/snow.

We went back to the hostel to warm up, and saw these awesome little kids doing a sound check in Ban Josip square.

Speaking of the hostel, it is by far the nicest one I've ever seen. It only cost about $15 a night and was amazing.

Kent even found some books to read.

And time to give me judging looks, of course.

We went back through the square to get some souvenirs, and since we had arrived at the beginning of Christmas season we got to see new lights go up just about every night we were there.

We took the 10pm bus back to Zagreb and walked back from Ilidža in a freshly falling snow. My hopes of Sarajevo being warmer were dashed. Home sweet blanket.


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